Hello everyone and welcome back to Firehammer Videos. So today we're going to be looking
at how to make some super fast bases using Green Stuff World Rollers. So I wanted to
do a review but nobody really cares about reviews on YouTube so this is going to be
more of a tutorial but it's a review. And we've got some green stuff, some sculpey and
some really cheap daft air drying cloths. Also from Green Stuff World, not only do we
have the textured rollers themselves, we've got the plain ones for smoothing out the clay
or green stuff in the first place, some round cutters which will allow us to cut to the
size of the bases and these silicon rings which keep the rollers off the base to a certain
Really good tip before we begin when working with clay or green stuff, just get some water
mix in some talcum powder like this and make yourself like a talc-y water for lack of a
better description. And mix that up and then as long as you keep your fingers and the clay
covered in this it should avoid most of the sticking. So first up we're going to get some
green stuff and just knead it together as you normally would and keep pressing and twisting
until it's green. Once it's green then it's pretty much ready to use, just put it down
and roll it out. You can use one of these plain rollers like this but if you haven't
got air forks out for one of them there's nothing stopping you getting the container
for any of your other ones. You're just rolling it like using that. So I tried out these rings
as well and they're pretty good, the concept's brilliant but you get three different sizes
in the pack. The problem is the medium to the small, with the medium that to me still makes the
thickness of the material you're rolling too wide. Oh and by the way when you roll be careful
because you're likely to stick the actual material to the roller. This happened to me quite a few times
When it came to actually rolling the roller, so because the silicon stands were too
too deep, I just had to carefully and gently roll the texture across the surface but as you start
rolling onto the surface it really grabs onto the material and this was the same with green stuff
the same with sculpey, with daff and it lifts it up. So initially you've just got to try and
prize it away until you start getting into the main body of the texture and then just give it
a steady roll all the way over the surface as you can see here it's still grabbing on
and this did take a few tries to get right and I ended up having to re-roll it out a few good goes
The other thing I got on this set were the cutters and I went straight in for the 32mm and the 40mm
cutters because those are the games workshop base sizes but this is actually the maximum width
So if you actually drop this down to the other supplies, the 68mm and the 30mm
these are actually the perfect size for base toppers so I used those ones instead
With these it's really really easy to just push into the material and give it a few twists and
cut away a base topper. Now with the green stuff because it's so malleable it actually caused
curves on the edges of many of these bases but I was still able to get quite a few out of about
three pounds worth of green stuff and then roll it up to get an extra one out of the remainder
Once done it was just a case of lifting these off the surface I'd used for cutting them
and then sticking them on some grease proof baking paper. This just made sure
that they didn't stick and then once they were dry I could easily lift them off
and use them for gluing to the bases. We've got Skulky. So I'm going to point this out right
here. I've never used this stuff, it was recommended to me and it is brittle. It doesn't feel like any
kind of clay or material I've used before. This is the extra fine which I was told would give me
a much better result on my bases and it did. I'll show you that in the results section
It's so fine it just sort of chops off and you have to chop it into little pieces and then you
have to push it together and fold it and roller it and knead it and fold it and roller it again
and I just kept going and going and going and every time you fold it it just cracks like this
and it sort of makes you question yes or no have I done it right or not and then as I say the actual
cracks are actually adding a part of the texture to it. Again you'll see this in a minute but I
certainly wasn't expecting on the way in to have to spend 40 minutes going through this same process
So in the end I broke it down into two sections and then took a flat roller to knead it out
and this actually gave me the finest surface of all of the materials and then it's just a case
of taking the texture roller and rolling it across the surface. Once again like the others this does
grab onto it and it's sort of difficult to follow and I've mixed up the two different patterns here
so I should have a bit of a plan. I've got an idea how I want to use this based on what I've heard
and what I've seen so I'm just having a play with the patterns here because I've got quite a bit of
it over the green stuff I can try a few of the different textures. The second time I remembered
I had some water and some talc to stop it sticking and this generally generally helps the roller
release from the surface so once again I'm using this Rumik one and Casey Cartwell I've really
fallen in love with this texture this sort of pattern and I'm really using that on a lot on
my basis going forward because it's so it's so detailed and so crazy and so usable but then
again I've mixed this in at the end with some of this sort of ice effect or frozen landscape to
see how that comes out. Also worth noting with this stuff unlike the other two highly recommended
that you bake this to make it go off rather than just let it air dry so here's me trying to lift
it from the surface of this Arkea chopping board without breaking it and then once I've lifted it
I'm just going to put it onto a greased piece of clay ready for the oven but again I'm using some
of these rings to just cut out a few bases so that we can try out a few techniques but you'll notice
I leave the majority of this here just sort of like sprayed out and rolled out I'll get on to
this and why I've done this in a minute but just pick out areas with a few features like this one
here that had a nice little crust in it naturally. And last but not least let's try some gas
and immediately out of the packet this is the most malleable of all the three substances this
is Cupid's chips this whole bag I think it's got two bags of this for like six pounds I've just
chopped a bit away here because we're going to be trying it two different ways this sort of
cracks as it dries so it's recommended to use PVA glue so this piece here will be the control
piece where we don't add anything. So just add some PVA glue when I say some I mean some I don't
know how much there's no magical formula so I just added some and then you've got to mix it
and if you haven't added enough then add some more you can kind of tell if you've added enough if it
goes too floppy then it's too PVA this is maybe too much I don't really know but yeah so just add
some. This is a little assistance my hands got absolutely covered so I haven't suddenly got
smaller smoother hands my daughter's actually helping me here apply some talc to the surface
This is rolling out the control piece so as you can see already it's quite malleable quite sticky
and even with all the water it sticks to the roller as well and again with the PVA glue it's
more of the same it's not so much rolling out as being pushed out trying to roll this stuff is like
having car tires stuck in mud it's just not going anywhere in the end I completely gave up trying to
roll it and I just sort of pushed it flat and then with a wet roller kind of smoothed out the surface
towards the end so just something to be aware of with this stuff maybe there's a better formula
of sort of a PVA balance but I couldn't find it so again I just cut some more bases out of that
stuff and then got them ready to stick to the actual Game Workshop bases just painting on some
super glue and then you take these ones starting with the green stuff and then just line it up with
the base let it stick obviously super glue is really really quick setting so try and get it
right first time or you'll struggle like I did and but here you go here's a load of the mud out of
that one wodge of green stuff we'll have another look once they're painted. Same with the Sculpey
so as you can see there's some textures here these have dried nice and hard and you've got some
details there that have been picked up that I didn't want them to same again just get some super glue
down the base line it up stick it down and you're good to go the only thing with these ones is you've
really got to press it down because the baking actually caused it to raise off the surface
so what I ended up doing is sticking them upside down and getting a bottle of PVA I had
and that bottle of PVA there that's actually got one of the bases under it just pressing it down
as it dries they're still quite flexible so you've got some time to get it set to the
actual surface of the base and and to keep them flat once it's dry as you can see the actual surface is pretty flush with the actual side of it you
can if you want sand them down and get the gap smoother or put some filler in there but
for a few quick and simple bases you know this will do and the detail I need has popped out
really really well the other cool things to do with these as was recommended to me and this has
been the most fun from this whole project and just get some of this if you just leave it rolled out
like this measure it up to the base and then just snap bits off and what you'll find is due to the
fine texture of it those holes and those creases that I was having trouble with when I was trying
to knead it actually end up making it look more like realistic sort of poured concrete and then
the best thing is if you get some of this stuff just some cork board line it or pull it off and
this will actually look like sort of hardcore underneath or you know worn away earth and
brittle stuff so sticking this to the other one can turn these pretty simple bases sort of just
cut out circular bases into some quick and easy scenic ones so I just stuck a ton of them here to
a board um with super glue and then it's just a case now of peeling them off one at a time
this took absolutely no time at all so once I've snapped all of the different models off I apologize
for the background noise this is what happens when we record a youtube video while you kids play with
a lego christmas present um but yeah getting back to it so just peel away the bits of uh of cork
here and and then before you know it you end up with an absolute ton of ready to stick on
scenic bases so here's an example of just how many I came away with so there's probably about
30 bases worth here all of different styles varieties and then stick them all together and
before you know it your scenic bases are all but gone so back to the next one so we've got the dust
material here one thing I also tried was some of this on baking foam but there were problems the
baking foam wasn't firm enough so as it cured and went off it actually just bent so this entire
piece here is just a complete waste of material but I have heard online if you reintroduce water
to this stuff you can actually uh turn it back into moldable clay so I might actually try that
at some point so um as we go um through a bit further so I'm just going to pull it off here
I think the best thing for this was this foldable chopping board um and then you can just use this
to uh to bend away and then flex away the material and it literally just popped off the surface with absolutely no effort whatsoever
so even though the dust is the least detailed as you can see it did snap away really easily so
the the weird thing is is because this is so water-based um as you sort of cut away with it
um anything that the water mixes with it sort of leaves a residual surface of of like wet clay so
all of those gaps just get filled this piece here was the control piece so I didn't add any PDA and
as you can see that that just flew away so once again back to glue so just cover the base in glue
and then stick down one of the surfaces and that'll give you a nice sort of smooth finish
and line it up with the base with these though there's kind of a papery edge that's left this is
what I was talking about before that's what a watery clay piece um and it's almost like papery
so the same when you snap this stuff it doesn't give like the layered textured surface that the
does um it just feels like a really again I can't describe it other than kind of papery edge
so um just something to be aware of with this stuff again it's the cheapest stuff it doesn't
stop you making bases at the end of the day and it's still good but I find that especially with
these sort of round match to the edge bases the best thing to do is to just give them a quick sand
and get rid of that weird papery texture once it's done just cover the gaps in some PDA glue
where you've done these splits cover it in some some sand and modeling material push it down
leave it to dry and then you've got a few so I had quite a few of these to do and well let's
do the results right so now we've got them sanded let's have a proper look at the detail so first up um in the
same order going to this world this has come out really well it's retained a lot of the detail but
what I found with all of them when you're doing the sort of more mechanical and factory bases
then they just they look too unrealistic unfortunately you've got to have such a
perfect roll with these uh otherwise you know they're no good unless you want to make some
sort of really rusty metals but for things like this more like outdoor kind of concrete style
they work really really well but all of them I found if you push too deep you get these ridges
that's just due to the wall as themselves this is the sculpey as you can see that's really
popped really good detail on all of these this one you can even see where I tried to roll out
uh this sort of runic pattern and then flattened it again and then rolled in the runic pattern
it's kept some of that surface detail and the sort of sub-surface the sub-structure
uh I think it's popped really well with these but again you also get the ridges with the sculpey
the daff this is the one with the the worst detail I mean again you get water into the clay
and you just end up with you know like when you get too much paint on a model here for example
is is the stone texture right up against sculpey and you can see the distance between the daff on
the left sculpey on the right so it's good it does the job and for a really really cheap
molding pair again it's three four pound just for a pack of it and you can get tons out of a pack
even when you mix it with some pva glue this will do the job but again not so great when it comes to
mechanical bases back to the green stuff world ones I've just thrown some paints on here so
just four plastic colors because the coverage is brilliant um and again these popped out really
well but uh you've got some of the ridges in there you can get away with it with the factory ones
this is what I meant unless you're going to throw rough effects at it and make it look
you know really worn and torn which let's just say it's thought okay you're gonna
then you just look unnatural like that with the sculpey as you can see the the rims of the
frozen bases because I've pushed so deep with the roller you've got a load of them ridges
so this just looks it doesn't look realistic at all this is after a dry brush and a deep wash
but I think this one's popped out really really well this is with the uh the sub structure that's
got a hard core beneath it and just a warm wash on that earthy color a cool cool dry brush on top
and then a few washes just to make it pop into the static glass it's really good
and then finally the I couldn't get much out of the bath I just I did a couple of dry brush passes
and then through some AK weathering sort of I think this one's some kind of grime or something
like that but again the bit that ruins it for me and stops me doing really good cement bases is
those ridges which have seemed to pop out everywhere it's with the dry brushes you
kind of want to use on surfaces it just kind of takes that stone effect away so here they all are
again for what is essentially an afternoon work this is really really good I'm really impressed
with the results of these and no effort at all and if you're doing them in a batch it'll take
absolutely no time to check out hundreds of them so that's it guys thanks for watching I hope this
was helpful as a kind of tutorial plus review for more things in your hobby stay tuned to
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